Polyester specialist Trevira has issued its colour and fabric trend forecasts for the winter 2003/2004 season to give advance guidelines for designers, manufacturers and retailers (director-e News, Thursday 3 October).
After the interplay of colour in summer, Trevira forecasts that things will calm down in the winter for women's outerwear, with greyish tones forming the keynote. There is an increase in the range of greys and browns, as all shades of grey - both warm and cold - assume importance, along with powdery pastels.
Effective use is made of vivid splashes of colour to provide striking contrasts. Denim tones of all kinds have not diminished in importance.
With men's wear, the main emphasis for the season is on browns and greys, ranging from pale to dark. They can be combined with each other.
Black/white stays in vogue, while medium tones mixed with grey, dark denim and midnight hues, combine to create new harmonies of colour.
Fabrics for women
Relaxed elegance, smart but casual styling, and the "uniform" look, are all natural features of next winter's fabrics for women's outerwear, says Trevira. They seem comfortable and totally lacking in ostentation.
Alongside complete outfits, other key elements are separate components that can be combined individually. Elegant flannel fabrics, the "used" look in cotton, fabrics with patina (leather and denim), velvety crêpe surfaces and silk-like textures - all point to the immense variety of the next winter season.
Fabrics are primarily matt and natural in their impact. A silken lustre and changéant effects ensure vitality, while innovative finishes and the washed-out denim look strike the contemporary note. Stretch remains indispensable. With blouses too, elasticity provides innovation and comfort.
Pinstripe variations are essential elements, as are elegant open and Pepita checks - mainly for suits and trousers. False plain and micro designs are more in evidence. Use is made of imaginative stripe and check patterns, primarily for blouses and pullovers.
Fabrics for men
For the winter of 2003/2004, Trevira's message for men's fashion is high-class casual. Appearing in a variety of forms, this means relaxed elegance and the casual but smart look.
Materials and profiles impress as totally genuine and natural, as the casual look begins to assert itself. Elements of styling derive from the military or worker look, or they reveal the influence of fashionable sports, like biking.
Russian and Alpine influences are in evidence, mainly in embroidery and jacquards. Combining and mixing various materials and looks sets the tone, maintaining the trend towards individuality.
Leather and denim in the used and vintage looks constitute important features of the collection, and they are also combination partners. Suits and sports jackets, coats and jackets are either elegant in the wool effect or smartly casual in light cottons.
Fabrics are primarily matt and natural in their impact, while silk-like changéant effects supply lively contrasts. They have the necessary qualities to give functionality and stretch. The use of ultra-fine and coarser yarns, such as mélange, vigoreux and mouliné, make for textured surfaces and for effects in colour and structure. For this season innovative wool finishes, double-dyed and washed denim looks remain significant, providing the trend-setting impetus for wool qualities.
Discreet stripes, virtually plain Glen and open checks are in evidence, mainly for suits. For woollen jackets there are more decorative checks in herringbone or diagonal weaves. Cotton (trousers, jackets) is mostly single-colour in the used look, with cord and ribbed patterns, or in satin weave or velvet-like structures.
With shirts, imaginative stripes and checks remain in vogue, although there are signs of a more relaxing note. Often diagonal, stripes are youthful and relaxed in their impact. Ribbed and cable patterns in knitwear are reminiscent of the graphic effects and designs of the Sixties.
With Trevira hi-tech fibre and filament yarns, the company states that today's demands for fabrics with extra functionality, comfort and quality, can be met precisely.
The newly developed Trevira Bioactive fibres enlarge the functional range on offer and protect against micro-organisms. Highly prized for their delicate handle, fine Trevira woollen blends (Trevira Perform) bring a casual elegance.
Trevira Xpand stretch qualities are essential items in every collection. Now available in knitwear collections as well, these elastic Trevira yarns are at their most effective in blends with viscose.
And Trevira microfilaments provide that soft feel and note of refinement. Fine-threaded Trevira discat filaments - adaptable for universal uses - offer many opportunities in terms of dyeing.
Fabric companies working with Trevira include Brennet, Drews, Hämmerle and KBC. Denim qualities can be obtained from Hecking Deotexis, Montebello, Mosters and UCO Sportswear.
Trevira materials can be found in the collections of leading brand manufacturers such as Brax/Raphaela, Gardeur, Delmod, Gerry Weber, Eugen Klein, Finn Karelia, Digl and Lebek. Shirts and blouses in Trevira come from Erfo, Gläser, Seidensticker and Trumpf, amongst others.